A 9–10-hour journey by public transport, offering a gradual introduction to Nepal’s diverse road conditions—from smooth, modern hillside roads to bumpy and adventurous gravel tracks.

After a relaxing evening, we begin our journey the following morning. We take a jeep from Machha Khola to Jagat, where we stop for lunch before continuing on foot toward Philim.

This stretch of the journey offers a firsthand look at Nepal’s newly expanding rural road network, passing through Gurung villages and revealing how improved road access is transforming local life, mobility, and the surrounding communities.

Philim, locally known as Dho Thang, has grown into a bustling small hill town and serves as an important commercial and administrative centre for the Tsumba and surrounding communities. As the headquarters of the Rural Municipality, it has increasingly become a hub for trade, services, and everyday activities in the region.

The journey from Philim to Chumling is another fascinating section of the trek. The trail is mostly uphill, winding through lush green forests with cascading waterfalls along the way. As we progress from Philim toward Lokpa, we gradually transition from the Gurung community into the Tsumba cultural landscape.

We will stop for lunch at Lokpa before continuing toward Chumling. Beyond Lokpa, the trail becomes more challenging, shifting from a moderately steep and well-managed path to a more rugged uphill section through dense forest.

One of the highlights of the day is an adrenaline-filled crossing over a dramatic cantilever bridge—the first of its kind in Nepal—adding an exciting element to an already adventurous stretch of the journey. By the time we reach Chumling, the landscape, trail, and culture have all begun to distinctly reflect the unique character of Tsum Valley.

After a relaxing day in Chumling, we wake up to the morning sunrise, enjoy breakfast, and begin our journey toward Upper Tsum Valley.

Lower Tsum Valley is a collection of small villages tucked into the hillsides, surrounded by a gently undulating landscape. As we trek through these settlements, everyday life unfolds along the trail. Traditional stone houses, women working in the fields, elders sitting in the warmth of the sun, and seasonal farming activities offer a glimpse into the enduring lifestyle of the Tsumba community.

Depending on the season, the fields may be covered in lush greenery, freshly harvested, or being prepared through traditional ploughing methods. These simple, everyday scenes are an important part of what makes the journey through Tsum so culturally distinctive.

From Chokang onward, the landscape begins to change. The terrain becomes flatter, and the trail opens into longer, straighter stretches, offering a gradual transition as we move deeper toward Upper Tsum Valley.
Our stay today is at Lama Gaun.

Lama Gaun, locally known as Ngak, is home to the historic Ngak Labrang. Today is a rest day, offering time to slow down and experience the village at a more relaxed pace.

You can spend some quiet time at Tsum Monastery, learn about the Compassion Project and its work in the community, or simply wander around the village and observe the rhythm of everyday life. It is a day to rest, explore, and connect with the spiritual and cultural character of Upper Tsum Valley.

For those looking for a little more exploration, an optional side trip can be made to Puron Phu, also known as Milarepa Cave, a site associated with the revered Tibetan Buddhist yogi Milarepa. The visit offers an opportunity to experience another layer of the valley’s spiritual heritage while enjoying the surrounding mountain landscape.

After a good rest day and time spent exploring the village, we continue our trek from Lama Gaun toward Mu Gompa.

Mu Gompa is a centuries-old monastery perched on a hilltop and marks the highest and final permanent settlement in Tsum Valley, with only a few nomadic communities living beyond it. The journey to Mu Gompa follows a relatively straightforward trail through a series of traditional villages, offering some of the most rewarding sights and experiences of the trek.

Along the way, we pass through Kaani (religious gateways), intricately carved Mani walls, suspension bridges, and traditional stone houses. Each element of the trail reflects the deep Buddhist heritage and distinctive architecture of the Tsumba people.

As we gradually make our way toward Mu Gompa, the villages become more remote and the landscape increasingly dramatic. The combination of culture, architecture, mountain scenery, and an authentic trail experience makes this one of the most memorable sections of the journey.

Upon reaching Mu Gompa, we settle into the monastery’s guesthouse for the night, surrounded by the peaceful atmosphere of this remote Himalayan sanctuary.